Dreaming of a snowy trailhead

I love snowy days in the woods! Wow, did I really just say that?

There was a time when cold temperatures made me want to burrow into the blankets with a good book and a cup of cocoa refusing to emerge. But about 15 years ago, I started spending more time outside running and hiking on trails. Winter has become something to look forward to—the cold air is invigorating, and snow adds a layer of beauty to the woods that can only be experienced by getting out there.

Here in Western North Carolina, significant snow doesn’t happen as much in the lower elevations anymore. In the higher elevations, however, a considerable amount still falls each year. My favorite peak in the Smokies, Mount Le Conte, received a solid six inches earlier this week, and I knew I had to go hit the trails. I rounded up a few dedicated friends and planned a loop on Le Conte combining Rainbow Falls and Bullhead, two trails I hadn’t visited in several years and had never seen with snowfall. The day was supposed to be sunny, and I envisioned a beautiful layer of snow glistening in the rays of sunshine.

True to form, the mountain had other plans. The day started out rainy but in the 40s. The parking lot for Rainbow Falls was empty when we arrived, a sight I’d never seen. As we made our way up Rainbow Falls, there were small patches of snow here and there but not much to speak of. Once we reached about 4,500 feet, the trail was lined with snow. Much of it had turned to slush with the rain that had been steadily falling through most of the night and morning.

As we made our way up the last mile or so to the lodge at the top of Le Conte, the rain had stopped, but it was cold and quite windy. The peak was covered in clouds, and once we stopped to eat some hard-earned calories, our warm wet bodies began to get cold quickly. I was eager to change into a new dry top layer to begin the hike down Bullhead, grateful for the break in weather.

The upper portion of Bullhead had more snow left on it than Rainbow Falls, and we debated pulling out our micro spikes, but the snow was slushy enough it wasn’t deemed necessary. As we hiked below the cloud layer, we were rewarded with a blue sky and wonderful views on our descent. The temperature rose the further down we went, and by the time we reached the trailhead, it was nearly 60 degrees—significantly different weather compared to the top of Le Conte.

So, is winter hiking in the Smokies is worth it? Absolutely yes!

Winter hiking has its own set of rewards. The biting and stinging insects are gone, and the lack of leaves allows for endless views in areas that are usually covered in the greener months. Cold, clear nights make for days of long-range views in the higher elevations. Hiking in the snow is especially breathtaking, as the snow rests nicely on branches of the abundant evergreens in the Smokies.

However, extra planning and precautions must be taken to have an enjoyable and safe winter hike. Great Smoky Mountains National Park recently launched the Smokies SMART campaign to remind everyone about best practices for trip-planning and being prepared for the backcountry. A handy list of pack essentials is in every issue of the free Smokies Guide park newspaper available online and in all visitor centers.

Before you head out, check the park’s road and weather line (865.436.1200) or the park website, as seasonal or temporary road closures may affect your plans. US 441 through the park often closes in winter due to inclement weather. Always remember to let someone know your hiking plans before you hit the trail.

Hiking in the upper elevations of the Smokies means temperatures may be 15 to 20 degrees cooler, and wind can make that feel especially frosty. Dressing for the season is key. Never hike in cotton in any season but particularly not in winter. The fabric holds sweat, which will lower your core temperature.

Instead, choose synthetic fabrics and layer up appropriately by choosing a thin base layer and a thicker mid or top layer. Always pack rain gear just in case. It can also serve as an additional windproof outer layer. To top it all off, wear thick socks, preferably a wool blend, to keep your feet warm and dry. Choose mittens over gloves for your hands, and make sure your head is covered. A neck gaiter can be a nice addition to minimize exposed skin.

Once you’re suited up, don’t forget to grab a few important pieces of winter equipment. For traction on icy trails, bring along a pair of micro spikes or crampons. Hiking poles are also helpful. Daylight is limited in the winter months, so throw in a headlamp and/or flashlight.

Last but certainly not least, bring plenty of water—even in the winter— and, of course, plenty of snacks. Stay Smokies SMART out there and have fun in the park’s winter wonderland!kee