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Photographer packs decades of devotion to the park in every frame

A smiling man in glasses poses next to a large lens camera.
Picture of Holly Kays

Holly Kays

Holly Kays works as a lead writer for Smokies Life. Formerly a journalist for The Smoky Mountain News, she earned 62 state and national awards during her news reporting career. Originally from Maryland, she is a graduate of Virginia Tech's creative writing and natural resources conservation programs. Holly is also the author of two books: Trailblazers & Traditionalists: Modern-Day Smoky Mountain People, which profiles some of the diverse people who call this region home, and a novel, Shadows of Flowers.

Bill Lea says heโ€™s not a morning person. Yet many days, heโ€™s up before the sun, hurrying toward the western portion of Foothills Parkway to catch its first rays as they light up Rich Mountain and swath Townsend in golden beams.

A blooming dogwood tree seems to glow against its backdrop of mist-covered mountains
A blooming dogwood tree seems to glow against its backdrop of mist-covered mountains during a springtime storm in Cades Cove. Photo by Bill Lea.

โ€œThis is what I love doing: chasing the light,โ€ Lea says, easing his Subaru into park at one of his favorite overlooks. โ€œAll the subjects we shoot, everybody shootsโ€”the only thing that makes the subject different is the light that you capture.โ€

The dayโ€™s forecast calls for sunny skies and warm temperatures that will verge on hot by afternoon, but the early morning air is chilly. The moon still hangs large and milky in the sky, the newly risen sun saturating every crater with illusory warmth. Lea sets up his camera and points it toward a vista of blooming dogwoods, emerging leaves, and long shadows, careful to shoot so the sun shines at a 90-degree angle to his subject. Side lighting gives depth to the image, he says, and he plans his morning outings with the sunriseโ€™s orientation in mindโ€”along with many other factors, such as cloud cover, humidity, and seasonal progression. In the background of every shot lies an intimate knowledge of the surrounding landscape.

โ€œThatโ€™s why you concentrate on your own backyard,โ€ he says. โ€œChances are you know it better than anywhere else you can go.โ€

sunlight shaft between two trees lightly sprinkled with leaves
In an early fall scene, a shaft of sunlight breaks through the forest. Photo by Bill Lea.

Reframed along the Mississippi
In a way, Lea, now 73, owes his photography career to the muddy waters of the Mississippi Delta. An avid fisherman throughout his childhood in Illinois and Florida, Lea didnโ€™t expect that inclination to change after moving to Vicksburg, Mississippi, where he landed his first job out of college as a forester for the International Paper Company. But he just couldnโ€™t get used to that murky water.

โ€œOne day, I put down the fishing pole, picked up a camera, and fell in love with the adrenaline flow of photographing wildlife,โ€ he said. โ€œI never looked back.โ€

That was nearly half a century ago. Since then, Lea has published multiple photo books and calendars, sold thousands of photographs to an array of publicationsโ€”BBC Wildlife, National Geographic books, and National Audubon Society calendars, to name a fewโ€”and become more familiar than just about anybody else with the way light brushes the animals and landscapes of Cades Cove, his favorite place in the world. Lea first experienced Cades Cove while traveling with his wife Klari shortly after their wedding in 1975, and he immediately knew it was special. From then on, Lea filtered every job opportunity that came his way through one particular lens: proximity to the Smokies.

Lea was โ€œnever good at wanting to cut trees,โ€ and at the first opportunity, he left International Paper for the US Forest Service, landing a job with the Ouachita National Forest in Arkansas. Then he began looking for positions near the Smokies. In 1983 Lea moved to Brevard, North Carolina, to work for Pisgah National Forest, and he finished his career as an interpretive specialist for the National Forests in North Carolina stationed in Franklin, North Carolinaโ€”about 45 minutes from the nearest park entrance and less than three hours from Cades Cove. Now retired, he lives just 20 minutes away from his favorite spot.

A red fox sitting a field of green grass with yellow flowers looks directly at the camera
A red fox sits in a meadow, spring blooms all around. Photo by Bill Lea.

In recent years, Leaโ€™s become enamored with landscape photography, but heโ€™s perhaps best known for his work with bears and other wildlife, creating iconic photos that offer a window into the everyday lives of these magnificent creatures. Though snapping the shutter takes only a moment, making a photograph can take all day.

โ€œSo many of my best photos are just pure luckโ€”being at the right place at the right time,โ€ he said. โ€œBut you have to be out there for the luck to occur.โ€

A change in perspective
Leaving Foothills Parkway, we come back through Townsend and turn onto Laurel Creek Road toward Cades Cove. Ordinarily, Lea tells me, he would never visit the cove on a clear, sunny morning like this one. It may be optimal weather for hiking and biking, but for photography the lighting conditions are โ€œvery boring.โ€

He waits for the cloudy days, the rainy days, the days where the air is so humid you could just about wring it out like a rag. Thatโ€™s when he drives to the cove, finds a place to park, and walks through the woods, hoping to see a bear. But if he sees one ambling along the road, he drives right byโ€”it upsets him when he sees people crowd or disturb these bears, and besides, he prefers to portray the animalsโ€™ natural behavior. That only happens when theyโ€™re relaxed and comfortable.

A man in a ranger jacket tenderly holding a bear cub
Then an assistant district ranger for Pisgah National Forest, Bill Lea keeps a bear cub warm while assisting researchers in 1985. Photo provided by Bill Lea.

Lea became acquainted with his first black bears in 1993, when a friend told him about a place in northern Minnesota where heโ€™d be sure to see a lot of them. The homestead of a retired logger, the place is now known as the Vince Shute Wildlife Sanctuary, which Lea co-founded. He and Klari had planned on three days for that first visit but ended up staying two weeks. It was a transformative experience.

โ€œI guess because bears kind of look alike to the untrained eye, you tend to think that theyโ€™re all alike,โ€ he said. โ€œBut theyโ€™re individuals as different as every human is different. And so we just came to know them. When each one is such a unique individual, then that gives value to that life, because he or she is one of a kind.โ€

He brought that philosophy back to the Smokies.

Focus on the subject bear
When asked whether he has any favorite bears, Lea responds that heโ€™s โ€œnever met a bear I donโ€™t likeโ€ and tells story after story of the animals heโ€™s known over the years.

One โ€œsweet, easy-going bearโ€ he calls Hazel is the subject of his best-selling print, titled โ€œThe Kiss.โ€ Lea began photographing Hazel and her two cubs in spring 2015, but when he returned a couple days later, one of the cubs was missing. The remaining cub slept in a walnut tree while Hazel, still on the ground, made a โ€œsoft little grunting soundโ€ intended to call her cub down to her.

A bear cub in a tree touching noses with an adult cub stretching up from below.
Bill Leaโ€™s best-selling print, called โ€œThe Kiss,โ€ shows a young cub leaning down from a tree to kiss its mother on the nose following the loss of its sibling. Photo by Bill Lea.

โ€œWhen the cub got to a crotch in the tree, Hazel stood up on her hind feet and the cub leaned down and kissed mom on the nose,โ€ Lea recalled. โ€œComing from both mom and cub, the feeling was, โ€˜Oh man, I am so glad I have you,โ€™ because they had lost such an important part of their life, the loss of that other cub. It was just such a special moment.โ€

Park rules require visitors to stay at least 50 yards away from wild animals like bears. But bears, like people, have differing requirements for personal space. Amiable Hazel was always perfectly comfortable with Leaโ€™s presence at that distance, but a bear he dubbed โ€œShadowโ€ lay at the other end of the spectrum.

โ€œShadow was not an easy-going bear,โ€ Lea said. โ€œShe was uptight, and man, you could be much more than 50 yards away from her, and sheโ€™d still give you the eye.โ€

Over the years, Lea has learned how to communicate his non-threatening intentions to the bears he encounters.

โ€œJust like a dog, a bear can tell a lot about your intentions through your tone of voice, and predators donโ€™t announce their presence,โ€ he said. โ€œThey know youโ€™re there, so if you want the bear to relax and exhibit natural behavior, talking to them eases any potential tension.โ€

Leaโ€™s love for bears eventually grew to rival his love for photography. Heโ€™s become their advocate, using the scientific and experiential knowledge heโ€™s accumulated to conduct educational talks and appear on networks and programs including Dateline NBC, National Public Radio, and Animal Planet.

A smiling man in glasses poses next to a large lens camera.
Bill Lea sets up his camera in Cades Cove, his favorite place to take a photo. Photo by Holly Kays, courtesy of Smokies Life.

โ€œWe tend to fear what we donโ€™t understand,โ€ Lea said. โ€œAnd once people have a chance to know what bears are really like, it changes their whole perspective.โ€

This story was originally published in the spring 2026 issue of Smokies Life Journal, a twice-yearly magazine that is the primary benefit of joining Smokies Life. To read more stories like this while supporting Great Smoky Mountains National Park, visit SmokiesLife.org/Membership and become a Park Keeper. For more of Leaโ€™s work, visit BillLea.com. His newest photo book, Great Smoky Mountains: Memories of Mystic Mountain Moods, will be published this summer. For purchasing information, contact him at BillLea.com/contact.

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